Friday, 23 December 2016

Detox - Curbar (video)



The Bad Landing boulder at Curbar has a multitude of problems. I've been working my way through these slowly... very slowly. Although I flashed Bad Lip when I first tried it a few years ago, the rest of the problems have taken substantial amounts of work. (La Musee Imaginaire still probably took the most. That thing was HARD!)

The other week I finally managed to haul myself from under the roof using new (for me) toe-hook beta that allowed me to catch the lip without slicing my hands to pieces. The sit start on the obvious rail on the boulder's underbelly exits via Bad Lip and is named Huffy's Roof.

Detox starts in exactly the same way. However, instead of tackling Bad Lip after the getting out of the roof, Detox veers left and goes up via edges and side-pulls. Having done Huffy's, I thought I'd shoot back to complete the harder Detox while the moves were fresh in my mind. Plus, having moved house recently, Curbar is now only seven minutes from where I live (yes, seven... I counted).

Many consider Detox not that much harder than Huffy's Roof - maybe they are right. Maybe it isn't MUCH harder but, in my opinion, it's definitely more difficult. The penultimate lock-out is further and harder and then there's a weird slab mantel that is rather dubious in balance.

I intend go back to Bad Landing as there is more to do but, I hope, I will keep myself away for a while. Admittedly, despite the former, long struggle with La Musee, the idea of linking the Huffy's Roof start into it appeals. I can already imagine the frustration building as I try to work that thing and yet my intrigue remains. There's something not quite right about that.

Anyway, enough pontificating. Here's the short video of Detox.